Journey With Deb

It’s astounding how much of the Malaysian culture is hidden from the public eye. Although I’m not entirely new to the kampong lifestyle or even interactions with the indigenous people (orang asli) – this particular visit to Pulau Carey last week shed new light to the Malaysian indigenous culture.

Having grown up in the city, kampong life is far from reach. My exposure to kampong life rides mainly on the many mission trips I’ve been to in the past. However my knowledge or experience on the festivals they celebrate is quite limited. Hence my excitement when the opportunity was offered to witness the colourful Hari Moyang celebration observed by the Mah Meri people at Pulau Carey.

We were greeted by naturally decorated archway of pandanus leaves ushering us into an open space with several shelters in place. The Mah Meri people are incredibly friendly and this particular celebration usually brings bus loads of tourist. In cases like this individuals have taken the responsibility to monitor the flow of outsiders to protect the privacy and culture of indigenous groups.

I was there to learn about the culture and not merely join in the celebration. This small group of people is incredibly skillful with craft work, their weaving skills are seen showcased in the neatly woven skirts, headbands and sashes worn during the celebration.  Mah Meri people are also great craftsmen with an inherent skill of carving intricate wood pieces.

The celebration started with an upbeat mask dance featuring a man donned with a big artificial belly hidden under a shifting skirt. He held an intense looking mask and thumped to the beat with hit feet as he moved in circles. Then a group of women joined the dance with synchronized dance moves around a woven center piece. Tourist stood still watching the dance unfold as the whole scene was quite mesmerizing, reminding me of the New Zealand Hakka dance.

After several rounds of dancing, we were invited to join in – and we did! It was so much fun as we moved in circles, waving hands in the air, stepping to the beat of the drums. The dancing soon adjourned to feasting as villagers swamped the buffet table filled with snacks and local delights.

Slightly to the right of the buffet table was a shelter hut where I believe the spiritual leader of the indigenous group sat. Behind him displayed an array of offerings. He sat cross legged as people journeyed up the steps to seek blessings from him. Tourist beamed at the idea of cultural blessings. The spiritual leader would pronounce a blessing and then he would smear white paste on the arms and forehead. We watched but did not participate – was quite a sight.

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